How and when did rice kutya originate? Discover why Ukrainians updated this traditional recipe.

In the 20th century, a quiet culinary revolution occurred in Ukraine, replacing traditional ritual dishes. The Soviet government, experimenting with agriculture, initiated the cultivation of rice on Ukrainian soil, leading to unexpected consequences for the national cuisine.

Historian Vadim Nazarenko shared that rice, previously known as "ryzh," began to gain popularity in Ukraine in the mid-19th century. Ethnographer Matviy Nomys noted in his works that the traditional kutya made from wheat groats began to be replaced by rice-based versions, which caused outrage among traditionalists. This recipe change was linked to social status: rice was considered an expensive product, showcasing the prosperity of its owners.

Rice dishes became popular due to imports from the Ottoman Empire. In the 18th and the first half of the 19th century, it was primarily consumed by wealthy individuals, as its price was high. For instance, in 1746, one pound of rice cost 6 kopecks, which was double the price of pork. This product was often used in elite dishes, paired with expensive ingredients like almonds and prunes.

Experiments in rice cultivation began in the 1930s. The southern regions of Ukraine – Kherson, Odessa, and Crimea – proved suitable for growing this unusual crop for our latitudes. Thanks to the favorable climate and the hard work of agronomists, rice successfully took root in Ukrainian lands. In Kherson region, a specialized Rice Institute was even established, which, unfortunately, is now under Russian occupation.

The mass production of domestic rice made this product accessible to a wider population. While rice was once viewed as a delicacy and primarily used in noble households, it has now become a common part of the daily diet of Ukrainians.

Particularly interesting is how rice has influenced traditional ritual dishes. In various regions of Ukraine, rice began to be used for preparing kutya and koliva – dishes that were traditionally made from wheat. Some researchers link this to a shortage of wheat groats during Soviet times; however, this theory is overly simplistic.

The geography of rice kutya's distribution demonstrates an intriguing feature: even within a single region, you can find areas that adhere to different traditions. In some localities, kutya is still made from wheat according to ancient recipes, while in others, they have switched to the rice version.

The reasons for such culinary diversification are complex. They include economic factors, the level of urbanization in different regions, as well as more subjective factors like the taste preferences of younger generations. Many children found rice kutya tastier than traditional wheat, which influenced the formation of new family traditions.

Today, both versions of kutya – wheat and rice – have become an integral part of Ukrainian culinary heritage. They demonstrate the national cuisine's ability to adapt to changes while maintaining its cultural significance.

Earlier, "Telegraph" reported on whether there is a "correct kutya". Indeed, different regions of Ukraine were altering traditional recipes as early as the 19th century.